History and Design
Geddes, Elisabeth, and Moyra McNeill. Blackwork Embroidery. New York: Dover Publications, 1976. Republication of 1965 work.
This has a good historical discussion of the style, but is strictly modern in its design and embroidery instructions.
Hald, Margrethe. Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials: A Comparative Study of Costume and Iron Age Textiles. Copenhagen: The National Museum of Denmark, 1980. (Publications of the National Museum, Archaeological-Historical Series, Vol. XXI)
This is an English text edition based on an earlier Danish work. It has excellent text and illustrations; an extremely scholarly work on materials, costumes, and stitches.
Krupp, Christina, and Carolyn A. Priest-Dorman. Women's Garb in Northern Europe, 450-1000 C.E.: Frisians, Angles, Franks, Balts, Vikings, and Finns. Milpitas, CA: Society for Creative Anachronism, 1992. (The Complete Anachronist #59)
The authors have created a well-researched overview and comparative costume guide for some usually overlooked cultures; includes discussion of materials and embroidery.
Zwanzig, Elizabeth (as Airmid Godwin). "A Catalog of Medieval Embroidery Stitches," in The Known World Handbook: Twentieth Year Edition. Milpitas, CA: Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc., 1985. Available from the SCA Stock Clerk, Box 360743, Milpitas, CA 95035.
Gives sources and dates of the earliest examples of embroidery stitches as found by the author in her extensive needlework research.
Pattern Books
Brody, Kim (as Ianthé d'Averoigne). Blackwork. Boston: Black Rose Press, 1978.
Brody, Kim (as Ianthé d'Averoigne). Counted Thread Patterns from Before 1600. Boston: Black Rose Press, 1986.
Brody, Kim (as Ianthé d'Averoigne). The New Carolingian Modelbook: Counted Embroidery Patterns from Before 1600. Albuquerque, NM: The Outlaw Press, 1995.
This recent work includes many of the patterns from her previous two works. It is an excellent compilation of patterns from period pattern books, and includes some original designs.
Cain, Elizabeth (as Elspeth of Morven), and Carol Mitch (now C. Kathryn Newell, as Kathryn Goodwyn). Flowers of the Needle. Boston: privately published, 1985.
This is a translated, photocopied compilation of seven 16th c. Italian pattern books.
Foris, Andreas, and Maria Foris. Charted Folk Designs for Cross Stitch Embroidery. New York: Dover Publications, 1975.
The book contains a wide selection of patterns, most of which are direct descendants of period designs, but there is little documentation of sources.
Guðjónsson, Elsa E. "Sjónabók frá Skaftafelli: An Icelandic Eighteenth Century Manuscript Pattern Book." Reykjavík: [n.p.], 1984.
This pamphlet contains the author's contribution to a book on the history of the Skaftafell farm, specifically an examination of a pattern book created by one artisan and farmer in the later 1700's; includes patterns from the original.
Kiewe, Heinz Edgar, ed. Charted Peasant Designs from Saxon Transylvania. New York: Dover Publications, 1964.
This has the same strengths and weaknesses as the Forises' book.
Robinson, Debby. Medieval Needlepoint. London: Collins & Brown, 1992.
The book has beautifully charted color patterns based on medieval illuminations, but no reference to period embroidery styles or patterns.
Siebmacher, Johan. Baroque Charted Designs for Needlework. New York: Dover Publications, 1975. Reprint of an 1880 reprint of a 1604 reissue of a 1601 work which included designs from a 1597 work.
This is a modern edition of a period pattern book.
Spinhoven, Co. Celtic Charted Designs. New York: Dover Publications, 1987.
All the various forms of Celtic patterns (including biomorphic designs of plants, animals, and people) are charted here; no specifics of dates or sources.
Vefnaðar og Útsaumsgerðir. Reykjavík: Íslenzkur Heimilisiðnaður, 1976.
This Icelandic pattern book is published by the Icelandic Handicrafts Society; little text, but the patterns seem to have been taken from actual embroidery pieces.
Vinciolo, Federico. Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery, and Needlepoint. New York: Dover Publications, 1971. Reprint of a 1606 edition of a 1597 work.
This is another modern edition of a period pattern book.
Zwanzig, Elizabeth (as Airmid Godwin). "Notes on the History of Counted Thread Work, c. 1300-1650." Pottstown, PA: privately published, c. 1986.
This is a small collection of notes and patterns by a needlework historian.
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